Frequently Asked Questions

No. Restoration depends on the condition of the original and how much visual information remains. Some photographs can be restored quite fully. Others can be improved in part. A few have losses that cannot be accurately recovered. That is why I assess each image before taking on the work.

Often, yes, especially when both sides of the tear are still present and can be aligned. Small losses along the tear can sometimes be reconstructed from neighboring detail. If a strip of the image is missing and nothing around it shows what belonged there, that section cannot be invented with accuracy.

Many can be improved. Stains, tide marks, and discoloration associated with moisture can often be reduced. If water has removed the photographic image itself, that area may be a loss rather than a stain. I can usually tell which situation you have from a good scan.

Fine scratches that sit on otherwise intact features can often be repaired. A deeper scratch is still often workable if the surrounding face provides enough information. If the scratch has destroyed a unique feature and nothing remains of it, I will say so rather than draw a replacement.

A missing corner or a small hole can sometimes be reconstructed when the surrounding image continues in a predictable way. A missing face, a missing figure, or another unique element cannot be accurately recovered if it is no longer in the photograph. I will distinguish repair from reconstruction in the assessment.

Faded prints are a large part of this work. Many still contain usable tonal information that can be recovered with care. A photograph that has faded almost to blank paper may only improve to a limited degree. The scan quality matters here; a washed-out print often holds more in a high-quality file than it appears to hold in person.

Yes. A large share of damaged family photographs are black-and-white or toned prints. The same kinds of physical damage apply: tears, stains, scratches, fading, and surface wear.

Aging color prints often shift in color as well as fade. I can correct many of those shifts. The aim is a believable version of that print, not a contemporary color photograph. Some dyes fade unevenly, and the remaining image sets the limit.

You do not need to. In most cases a scan or a careful photograph of the print is enough. Mailing an irreplaceable original introduces risk that is usually unnecessary. If a particular project ever required the original, that would be discussed first. A general mailing policy is not set here until you decide how you want originals handled.

Lay the print flat, light it evenly if you are using a camera, and avoid glare. Do not apply filters or automatic enhancement. Include the damaged edges rather than cropping them off. If the photograph is in an album and cannot be removed safely, photograph it in place as squarely as you can.

For most prints, 600 dpi is a practical starting point. Small prints or photographs with fine scratches and hairline tears often benefit from 800–1200 dpi. If you are photographing the print with a camera, fill the frame and keep the image sharp. A large, clear file is more useful than a small one.

No. Restoration is digital. The paper original remains as it is. I work from the copy you send.

The restored photograph is delivered as a high-quality digital file. The exact format can be confirmed when the work is scoped. Common delivery formats for this kind of work include JPEG and TIFF. I will not lock a single format into policy until you specify what you prefer to keep on file.

Yes, when the source image has enough quality to support it. A good scan of a small print can still make a fine reprint at a similar size, and sometimes larger. I will be plain about print limitations if the source is very small, very soft, or heavily damaged.

It depends on the photograph and on the work already underway. A limited scratch cleanup and a heavily damaged print are not the same timeline. I provide a time estimate when the scope is agreed rather than advertising a standard turnaround.

Pricing is based on the condition of the photograph and the amount of work required. Tears, missing areas, heavy staining, and severe fading take more time than isolated surface marks. After I review your image, I can explain the scope and the cost. There is no published price list on this site yet, because it would not fairly describe every print.